As some of you know, I live in Florida, near Venice, Florida -- so don't get the two confused.
The last time I was in Venice, Italy, was in 2017. I was a tourist. I shot 3000 plus photos, went to every tourist spot, several hours in museums, and I came away [visually] exhausted. Despite knowing better, wanting to explore on my own, and just relax some days, it's hard to when you are there.
When I got the chance to go again in June 2023, I knew exactly what I was and wasn't going to do.
1. Get up early and get to St Mark's Square before 8am. It's true that the locals are up and around and the tourists aren't.
2. Take a paper map with you. Just like in 2017, not only is there limited wifi, most apps load slowly because of all the tourists sucking up the bandwidth. Venice physically can't change much, so even a map from 2017 still worked today. Just a few stores were closed or different.
3. Unless you speak Italian, don't ask a waiter or waitress where something is located. I saw and heard this all the time (in American-English).
4. Which brings me to this one: Greet people in Italian, and thank them in Italian also. Just by doing this little courtesy, I was able to get a lot of help, advice, secret happenings, and respect.
5. Use a Translator App vs pointing and grunting. I used Google Translate several times with the housekeeper (who loved it!) and with restaurants when I needed to substitute something. They all thought it was fun and easy - but also very courteous of me.
6. Go to the smaller boutiques and art galleries. There are so many varieties of items made in Venice, there in front of you: soap, art, clothing, jewelry, etc. My favorite is always the items at the Libreria Alta Acqua that makes items out of old books.
7. Eat Italian food in the Venetian way. This means anti-pasta, primi, pasta, secondi, and then dessert. Let the waiter recommend items as well. They know what is good at each restaurant.
8. Nothing is cheap. Yes, you can get a few items of food and drink and gelato affordably, but for the most part, no. Plan accordingly so you will eat well enough and stay hydrated.
9. Don't go to Harry's Bar. There I said it. In 2017, we wanted to go -- and the line to get into this closet of a bar is sometimes 35 people long. There are about 10 tiny tables inside and you are only allowed to sit if you are eating a meal. (Sandwiches only). However, they "allow you" to try and find space at the bar. But the bar is thick with people, too. Two of us waited outside for 30 minutes and still no table. Finally found space at the bar and waited another 20 minutes for 6 olives in a bowl and 2 of the cheapest Bellinis on the planet. (The ones in the supermarket premade and frozen taste better). 40 Euro later, we looked at each other and really felt ripped off.
10. Go out into Venice at night, Save a few days back at your hotel or ship, so you can go out into Venice at night. The locals have late night farmers' markets, drinks and dinners are more rustic and affordable, and there is an old vibe to the city. It is definitely cooler - I needed a light sweater - and it even smells different. I met more locals at night. They had a lot of good advice on where to eat, where to shop, and other little secrets.
All photography Copyright by Tina Ortiz, June 2023
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